Rainbows in Cusco

I can only look at so many clay pots...

As a part of my 10 day tourist ticket I have been trying to hit up all the museums that are included for free. Now, I love museums. Really. Visit them on a regular basis. That being said, there are only so many broken clay pots from the Inkas and paintings of baby Jesus or the Last Supper I can do. Even the museums of contemporary and popular art are mostly religious, influenced by Spanish colonization.

 

 

What is very interesting is the art of the people of Peru/Cusco and in both the paintings and especially the clay. Also, some of the medical procedures the Inkas used to do are really interesting (of course there is only one wall for this while 20 rooms for the clay pots). The Inkas used to purposefully deform the heads of babies/children in order to establish class and race (see picture - thou as I was looking at the skulls, mummies, and teeth I wondered who would think their dead carcas would be sitting behind glass thousands of years from now). Also, when someone had a head injury thery used to dig holes in the skull with copper and gold instruments, and used coco leaves for anesthetics. Can you imagine? About 65% of people survived. Afterwards they would fill in the hole in your skull with gold plates.

 

 

 

 

Other than that I dont think I will be visiting any more clays pots. I´m an artist. I need color and pretty pictures in my life.

Cuy is for Guinea Pig and Yes I Ate It...

As some of you may know cuy is the speciality dish of Cusco. I was told I had to at least try it when I came (:/). So when everyone was like cuy this and that here I was ready. However, what I was not ready for was to be served the whole thing. Arms...legs...head...claws. The thing is looking you like it's about to pounce. Like really. Like really really. Now I am trying to get it toghther and convince myself that this is part of my Peru experience. I cannot leave the country without eating this fried rat.


So I try it.


Ehhhh...


Hmmm...


Tsssss...


I don't like it.


The thing about the cuy is that it's muscle and not really fat so the little meat that's on it is tough and the skin is thick. I pick at it. Trying not to be a punk. The gingers I was with ate everything licking the grease off the lips. They also ate something that they thought was either the kidneys or the lungs. I was like maybe it's the balls - you really gonna eat that? (I know - I try to control the ghettoness while in cusco but damn - those could have been cojones - I'm just saying).

Me and the Gingers on an Adventure

I finally starting doing all the touristy things that you are supposed to do while in Cusco like visiting the ruins and going to museums. You need to buy a tourist ticket for 130 soles in order to get into any of the tourist sites and you only have 10 days to see all 14 museums and ruins that are included. Saturday is the city tour and Sunday is Tipon.


My partners in crime are the ginger siblings (A ginger is a redhead - which I found out a week ago and have been loving the name ever since - thou apparently there is a National Kick Ginger Day where redheads really do get beat up... wrong but a little funny).


So me and the Gingers go on our adventures to the ruins. The Gingers, besides being redheaded, have some other differences between us. Like being tall. And being hikers. And mountain climbers. Also, thou I did not know it before (because my behind has never been one with nature) I am scared of heights.


So the tall mountain climbing gingers are jumping over ruins and I am looking at these little stone step things like I am going to die. And everytime I am near the edge of anything I am having a private panick attack which I am hiding from the brave gingers. Can't be a punk. Gotta be gangsta with it even on the mountains (lol - this is probably what I was thinking about during the several times I tripped instead of focusing on my walk).The gingers were using camp slag and I had no idea what they were talking about half the time. Then they pulled these rainjackets from out they back pockets (ok that is an exaggeration but I swear that's what it seemed like).


That being said, I am glad I had some Ginger power with me. This trip is about putting myself outside my comfort zone. Being with people who challenge me while patiently waiting while my stubby self is holding on to dear life on rocks they had no problem jumping over was nice(please note that this example is literally and not an exaggeration).  I am sure I slowed them down but they never complained or teased (which I surely would have done). And now I want to learn to rock climb. Even if it's a baby 10 foot rock. Which I am sure I will have another panick attack with and tell myself I gotta be a thug cuz no 10 foot rock is goona get the best of me.  


The randomness - part of our adventure was spinning around with arms wide open singing the hills are alive with the sound of music while in the ruins. A mess. But when surrounded by mountains...

Finally...I Made it to White Jesus...

So after several attempts of trying to get to White Jesus and failing me and the other students decide to stop being cheap and just take a taxi up the mountain. After a ten minute ride (mind you our walk and getting lost and not making was a two hour experience) we get to White Jesus just in time to take pictures for sunset. Like fools we told the taxi driver to leave thinking that we would be there long.


Here is the thing about being on top of a mountain. It's cold. And windy. We lasted about ten minutes. Got over the pictures with sunset thing. Looked around. And wondered how were we gonna get our behinds off this cold hill. We starting walking down the hill hoping for a taxi when the local bus beeped at us. And we surely hopped on even thou they overcharged us. We took the bus like the citizens of Cusco do.


Now when I say bus I mean big van packed with people with your face damn near squished to the window and you cuddling with the person next to you. No lie. So this is our ten minutue ride down the hill. It was a relatively short experience and not as excitig as I thought it would be. Especially after all the walking and hoping put in. But I did get my picture with Cristo Blanco and it was an adventure.

And we dance...

 

I finally went out salsa dancing with some other students last night. I have had two classes and have gotten better, which gave me some (false) confidence- which I should have checked at the door becuse I know I am not a good coordinated dancer. So we go, and the music is playing. And here comes the instructor from Cuba. Trying to teach us how to dance. And failing. I have never met a worse instructor. It is not that he is a bad dancer. He was so rough. Threw you around. Put you over there without warning. And I do not mean this in a sexy way. He would show you a complicated step once and look at you like you were stupid for not getting it the first time. The worst. He must be awful in bed.

 

 

Nevertheless, after the 5 minutes he spent on me he gave up saying that I had no sense of time and passed me off to his friend to show me. Which was a much better experience. This was not before he told me that I needed to be more sexy and move my hips. Then proceded to demonstrate in a crude manner.

 

 

(Insert a c´mon son face here - for those of you who do not know what this means - I looked at him like he was a damn fool and insulting my intelligence).

 

 

Now, my rhythm may be off but I have no problems moving my somewhat large hips or being sexy. How about you worry about the fact that I don´t got the steps right, Mr. Instructor Man, and don´t come no where near my sexy, thank you very much.

 

 

Anyways, I danced with the friend and it was a much better experience. I actually got to dance by someone who could lead. Which means I can pretend I know what I am doing even thou my timing was a little off at first (well a lot at first), and I messed up the steps during the spins. And when I got off the dance floor I was told by the other students how sexy I looked out there. 

 

 

BOO - YAAA MR. INSTRUCTOR MAN!! 

 

 

E

Taking it to Church...

I woke up at 6am this morning to be to church by 7am for morning mass. Here in Cusco, the churches attract a lot of tourist and the only way you can get in for free is if you go to mass. Also, pictures are never allowed. Needless to say, the churches here are beautiful. Truely. And grand. I know I am PMSing becuase it brought tears to my eyes. I really did feel like I was in a holy and spiritual place.


Being here in the school, and in this tourist spot in general, I forget how special it is that I am here. People here are traveling South America for a year or two years and talk about it like it is nothing. Like its normal. Its not. I was happy to be reminded that this trip is special and I worked hard and made sacrifices to get my behind South of the equator. So I prayed in the church. And in my prayer I asked for nothing, just gave thanks.


E

On the Quest for White Jesus ... and getting lost...

From the center city of Cusco you can always look up to see Cristo Blanco (White Christ) from the top of a near distant mountain. The name is not very creative - it's an all white Jesus perched up on a hill with arms wide open looking to the heavens above.


Another student and I decide we are going to walk to see White Jesus (please note I am the only one who refers to the statue as such - the other student kindly refers to it by it's proper name). We did invite another student who had actully already made the quest and knew the way but he got food poisoning from the Indian food we ate the night before. I was smart enough to take pepto the night before and was feeling better. (And I know - who goes to an Indian restaurant while in Peru? But the food was banging...) Thou I  did feel bad for this fellow student´s sickness I did take note that there was a very specific reason he was invited. He knew the damn way. Nevertheless - he said it was just straight up this one street and we marched up with adventure in our spirits.


And got lost.


Sidenote - I definitely have a blister and not frost bite. So I had a little baby limp.


Now, please note that almost all these tourists I am with are hikers and backpakers and cook on a stove they carry in thier bag for food they got from who knows where. Then you have my short stubby self in the hilly mountain terrain. Breathing all hard. Trying to act like I'm not breathing all hard. Next to the backbackers (well maybe a couple steps behind). Having to take pictures of the terrain to catch my damn breathe.


So this is the setting of the adventure as we walk uphill to White Jesus. It starts to rain so we take cover in front of someones house. Which of course I'm fine with becuase it allows short stubby self to rest. We take pictures as we wait.


And then we walk.


Past the entrance of the ruins.


And walk.


And walk.


Taxis wizzing by honking at us to see if we want a ride.


Cuz they're like what are these two idiots doing walking up this hill.


Take a picture to document our lostness.


And eventually make it to the other side of the ruins and ask where is White Jesus.


Backs toward the other side of the ruins we originally past.


So we march back down hill. And what do we see looking down at us from the original entrance we past but White Jesus. Who is conveniently blocked by trees on the view uphill but not downhill. So we ask the entrance guy- how do we get to Cristo Blanco? He tells us to see him (White Jesus) is free but not the ruins where he is located so if you want to pay the entrace fee you can. Or take a taxi. Or walked back down the hill to find some dangerous and steep and probalbly rotting stairs. Those are free.


(blank face)


Hmmmmm...


We'll come next week when we get it as a part of our city tour.


Took pictures to document our defeat.


And walked back down.

This is as close as we got.


E

So I might have frost bite in my left pinkie toe...

Or it might be a blister. I'm just saying - it's cold and I am convinced that either is plausible. You might think I am bring dramatic but when you are up in the middle of the night shivering from the mountain cold and there is a pain in your left pinkie toe you start to thinking. What is that? Well I don't know because I have not seen my feet in two weeks because they are always in my socks. True- but at least my pedicure is staying. Wait. Doesn't frost bite start at your fingers and toes. With pain ... And then you never feel anything again! What if I have frost bite? Damn yo. Good thing I got that travel insurance.


So this is how the conversation with self goes. You can convince yourself of anything in such circumstances- when the spirit is worn down. And as much as I try to control my American priviledge- in the cold... In the middle of the night ... I can't help but wonder ... What kind of damn city with any kind of modern anything don't got no damn heat in 40 degree weather and this is the warm season this is some ole b#%*$@!


E

There are many black people in Nueva York, si?

 

This is the question from a man named Sante from Cusco.Yes... And the next question is there still racism in the US. And yes... Por que? So I then had to try to explain in simple English the complicated social system of racism in the United States using my experience with prisons (which of course I do not know any vocabulary for). Interestingly enough, he then explained that becuase he is Indian he is not allowed in the clubs for turoist (discrimination), that the police always stop him for stealing (racial profiling) and that Cusco is becoming more expensive and pushing natives from Cusco out the city (gentrification). So really, he knew what I was talking about but becuase there is a view of such privilege in the US for all he did not think that blacks (and Latinos) experience racism in this day in age.

 

Sante also explain the history of Cusco and the Incas (well some of it). This included the rainbow flag. When I first arrived to Cusco I was a little confused becuase there were rainbow flags everywhere, which in the US represents gay pride. I doubted that it meant the same thing in this highly Catholic country so asked Sante why Cusco has a rainbow flag. The Incas (and please excuse any information that may be wrong - I am going off memory and Spanish) believed that rainbows were a sign of good luck.  Whenever there was a big decision to be made they waited for the sign of the rainbow to tell them whether it was the right decision. This is because the Incas believed heavily in the Sun (and Moon). When the Spanish came to Latin America that Incas thought that they were good becuase thier hair and eyes were light (like the sun). Well...we all know how that worked out...

I took a picture with a Baby Llama and Danced Salsa

Yesterday after class instead of going to my homestay for my lunch and siesta me and another student decided to go to lunch and walk around. We went to lunch at "Los Perros" (The Dogs) which is a Swiss/Peruvian fusion resturante recommended by one of the teachers. They had some banging hot chocolate but were a little expensive (like 15-25 sols which is only $5-10 but I could get lunch for $3). However, that did not stop me from ordering 2 hot chocolates (7 sols ... $1 = 2.82 sols).

 

 

We walked around Cusco and visited the markets. I saw many presents for people. The only problem is evertything I would get for others I also want for myself :/ thou I refuse to buy anything yet. Well, other then socks becuase it is so cold at night. I have not been warm since I´ve been here - es horrible.

 

 

Anyhoo, while we were walking there was a lady with a baby llama and me and Juanita (the name of the baby llama) took pictures.  We walked around and took pictures of everything thinking that every building was just sooo beautiful. I know people who are from Cusco were looking at us like "look at these assholes." I know becuase living in NYC that is how I felt about all the tourists I saw taking pictures of the randomness like it was life changing. However, that did not deter me from taking pictures of the randomness, including grass growing from out the roof of a building.

 

 

The school offers salsa classes every Thursday which along with spanish I need to know already. I know I am Puerto Rican at heart becuase even though I did not think the salsa teacher was sexy, as soon as he started dancing his points went up and I was like mmmm. As many of you know, I am not a good coordinated dancer so I struggled as soon as we did more then the basic step, which is fine becuase my behind will be there next week. The salsa teacher invited us to the discoteca where he teaches to dance and have a free drink on him. I´m about to participant in the Cusco night life :)  

Sleep and Mac and Cheese ...

 

So I´ve been sleeping a ridiculous amount ... like 11 hours. I take my 2 hour siesta (which anyone who knows me know that I love) and then am in bed by 10pm to wake up at like 630. I feel like an old lady. I am trying to tell myself its the jet lag but I might be lying to myself. We will see. Above my bed (and every bed in the house) is a picture of Jesus himself to look down upon me (and protect me while I sleep? or maybe remind me not to do anything sinful? we´ll see how that works out). Peru is a very catholic country. So far I have not russelled any feathers thou it could be because I don´t know enough spanish.

 

 

So I finally was able to call my mother yesterday but only after Senora Leticia went on a mission to find the correct calling card (I bought the wrong one which took me 3 days to purchase in the first place becuase I got lost). We went to like 5 stores and that old lady walked like it was her duty. Made me feel like my young self needed to get it toghther. But I did get to talk to my mom who "only wanted to hear my voice to make sure I was okay and tell Senora muchas gracias." I love my mom and can´t wait til thanksgiving turkey.

 

 

So I mention thanksgiving in my class today to my teacher and she asks me what do we eat for this holiday (where do I start?). So I mention turkey, green beans, stuffing, and mac and cheese... "mac and cheeeese que eso?" Don´t know mac and cheese? Its like the best thing in the world. So I proceed to explain mac and cheese and how to make it (since appartently it does not exist in Peru .. they are missing out... actually I could start a resturante y make mad dinero). "Que rico." Yes it is. So I need to make some mac and cheese before I leave. I also tried to explain breaded chicken and think I got her to understand what are bread crumbs thou needed to google a picture of it. Sigh...smh...

 

 

Oh, and I surely got my chocolate yesterday... thou it wasn´t that good but thats besides the point.

So me and my ipod had a dance party...

 

It is so cold. Last night I broke down and busted out the ipod. I shook my tail feather until I warmed up. I read later in my book that this is what Josephine Baker did when she was a teenager living in the slums to keep warm, thou I doubt I will have a successful career as a dancer. Que frio!! is the one spanish phase I do know. I´m waiting to say que calor! But it does not seem to be happening anytime soon. I actually don´t know why I get drerssed in the morning since the only thing people see is my hoodie or jacket (buildings are not heated). Feel like my attempt to be color coordinated in the morning does not matter.

 

 

My homestay mama (Senora Leticia) is a retired teacher. She makes sure I am drinking mate de coca always and soup (no mas porque me sickness). She always waits for me to finish eating to clean up. I actually feel bad but don´t know how to say its okay if you don´t stay without being rude. I also thinks that it is one of the ways she takes pride in her home. Though our conversations are helping practice my spanish so thats good.  I was scared that she was gonna walk in my room during my personal dance hall party (at this point I was in my underwear) and see this crazy American in her undies dubbing it out (well not really dubbing but you get the point). But then I came out and she wasn´t even there. Went to the store by myself to purchase water and had a little language problem with how much things cost but it was ok. I was also just looking for a good chocolate bar -Dove maybe? (listen don´t judge cravings don´t go away just becuase you in a different country). But that didn´t work out :( - but my next goal is to go to the supermarket and find some there. (don´t mess with a woman and her chocolate)

 

 

E

Asprin and Pepto are My New Friends...

 

So I have been here for a day and have already seen three llamas and went to the markets. They have like $1 earings - I was like I need to get out of here before I spend all my money. Definitely had meat sitting out all day crusting on the corners but whatever. The altitude here is higher and I have been having the worst headache (not to mention making me feel fatter then I really am cuz I´m heaving up every hill I walk). I tried to thug it out but last night felt like my head was gonna explode so gave in this morning. My homestay mother gave me a water to take the pill (and my head was so bad I forgot not to drink the water) so like in five minutes my stomach started doing thangs ... which is when I got the pepto. The first thing I purchased when I left the house was bottled water.

 

 

It is hot here during the day (thou people still wear sweaters and I´m like will they look at me crazy if I put on a tank top) and super cold at night. I slept with like 5 blankets - three of them heavy and was still cold. My homestay mother refused to let me take a shower last night (which I sorely needed after an 18 hour flight and being at my school for a city tour all day) becuase I might get sick. Which is probably is smart since most homes in Cusco don´t have heat and I would have woke up with a cold on top of a headache and stomachace. Though I´m sure they just would have given me mate de coca (coca tea) which no matter the ailment seems to be able to cure it in Peru.

 

 

Well ... I´m about to buy more bottled water.

 

 

E

Son... the flan on the plane was banging

So I get on the plane to go to Lima after a six hour layover in Miama and I felt the ghetto Rochester girl coming out. Wided eyed and mouth open. I was like "this is a plane like in the movies! Yeah boi." Then I was like get it toghther. Sat in my comfy chair with my little tv in front of me and remote control next to me and snuggled in my airline provided fleece blanket and pillow and pretended I was in first class (of course they were drinking tea and champagne when I first walked in but I didn´t remember that at the time). Took a good nap and woke up hungry and was like damn I ain´t got no food. Then here come the stewartess (flight attendant) with some chicken teriyaki. I was like "yeah boi."  Did not even care that it was 2am.  I was gonna eat the salad but decided against it - I didn´t know if the cant eat uncooked vegetables anymore while in Peru applied on the plane and wasn´t going to even test it (I may be a boogie American but I don´t was the bubble guts my first day in). But son ... the caramel flan on the plane was banging. ´

On the flight to Cuzco to Lima it was nothing but mountain tops. Just beautiful. And you know my tourist ass was taking mad - yes i said mad - pictures from the airplane window.

E